SOME chefs storm into the city like an invading navy, gunships of publicity thundering on the horizon. Mads Refslund slipped into town in January as quietly as a canoe. Word was that new owners had taken over the Acme Bar and Grill on Great Jones Street, which had dished up jambalaya under strings of chile-pepper lights for more than two decades. From the sidewalk, it looked as if nothing had changed. The red-and-blue awning still advertised “Authentic Southern and Cajun Cookin’. ” When the double doors opened in January, Eater , the usually all-seeing restaurant blog, reported that the menu “still has a Southern accent.” Soon, clued-in diners were filing ecstatic reports about Mr. Refslund’s food, which was non-Southern in the extreme. He was tucking a spooky tartare of bison and raw shrimp into endive and radicchio leaves. He was roasting sunchokes in a bed of hay, then setting the hay on fire. For dessert, there were chewy dried pears strewn around a green mulch of frozen … [Read more...] about Denmark Can’t Avoid the Radar
Cajun town cafe menu
ST. CHARLES, Mo. — The flavors at the Peruvian restaurant Jalea are electric. The location? A bit more unassuming. The nearest major city, St. Louis, is 23 miles away. But on a quiet cobblestone street, sandwiched between a Pilates studio and a financial services consultancy, you’ll find ceviche with delicate slices of grouper and plump corn kernels, all swimming in a tart, ginger-heavy leche de tigre; and lomo saltado whose soy- and vinegar-laden sauce arrives lacquered onto chunks of rib-eye. Jalea’s owners, the siblings Mimi and Andrew Cisneros, recognized the risk in choosing this quaint street over a city known for its vibrant restaurant scene . But they saw opportunities in the suburbs that they wouldn’t find in St. Louis. Yes, the rent was lower. And St. Charles, where the Cisneroses spent their teenage years, is also one of the fastest-growing counties in Missouri. “St. Charles is not just the white suburbs where we grew up,” Ms. Cisneros said. “It is becoming … [Read more...] about America’s Next Great Restaurants Are in the Suburbs. But Can They Thrive There?
At Chez Ma Tante in Brooklyn, the first restaurant Aidan O’Neal and Jake Leiber ran together, early press reports portrayed Mr. O’Neal as the executive chef and Mr. Leiber as his second in command. But in interviews they gave — always in tandem — it was clear that they were equal partners and that they agreed about everything from their preferred cooking surface (Teflon) to the ideal art to hang in the dining room (none). They share the job of executive chef at their second restaurant, Le Crocodile , also in Brooklyn. This is probably fortunate for them, given how popular the place has become since it opened in December. It is definitely fortunate for us, because another thing Mr. O’Neal and Mr. Leiber apparently agree about is how the food at a modern New York brasserie should look and taste. The menu’s long, single page cascades from one category of appetizer to the next, from shellfish to snails, before arriving, about midway down, at Entrées. That’s a head fake: the word … [Read more...] about Le Crocodile Shows How a New York Brasserie Should Look and Taste